The Blue-Eyed Burmese

It might seem strange to find people with tall statures, prominent noses, and blue eyes who look distinctly European, yet dress like Myanmar people, eat Myanmar food, live the Myanmar way, have Myanmar names, and speak Myanmar fluently as citizens of Myanmar.

Myanmar has 135 ethnic groups and freedom of religion. While the majority are Buddhist Bamar people, there are also citizens who migrated from neighboring countries like India and China and have become fully integrated into Myanmar society. Since these countries share borders with Myanmar and have similar cultural foundations rooted in Buddhism and Hinduism, their historical and cultural connections are not particularly surprising.

However, what is remarkable is how people from Southern Europe, with different religious beliefs, different cultural foundations, and no historical connections, came to Myanmar and became Myanmar citizens.

These are the Portuguese people - from the same Portugal as the famous footballer Cristiano Ronaldo. However, Myanmar people call them "Bayingyi" based on their religion.

Today, the Bayingyi have been in Myanmar for about 500 years. Though they are ordinary citizens now, they were once important figures in Myanmar's history.

The Origins of Bayingyi

Like Myanmar Buddhists' belief in cause and effect, historical events are interconnected. The arrival of Portuguese in Myanmar is linked to Vasco da Gama's discovery of the Cape of Good Hope.

In the late 15th century, Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered the sea route to the East Indies by circumnavigating Africa and finding the Cape of Good Hope. This discovery of the Europe-Asia maritime route brought significant changes to both the world and Myanmar.

Through this route, European merchants, sailors, and mercenaries began expanding into Asia. In 1511, Portuguese merchants reached Goa in western India. Using Goa as a base, they began settling along Myanmar's coastline, including the Rakhine coast, Mottama, Thanlyin, Myeik, Dawei, and the Tanintharyi coast.

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The Europeans who arrived through maritime trade were called "Bayingyi" by the ancient Myanmar people. The term "Bayingyi" derives from the Persian word "Farangi," meaning foreigner. The Catholic religion they brought with them was also called "Bayingyi religion."

Merchants, Mercenaries, and Religion

Although the British eventually colonized all of Myanmar, the Portuguese (Bayingyi) were the first to attempt colonization.

Among the Portuguese who arrived in Myanmar were both merchants and mercenaries. They served various Myanmar kings including Tabinshwehti and Bayinnaung, as well as Mon and Rakhine kings.

The most notable among these mercenaries was Philip de Brito y Nicote, known as Nga Zinga. When Rakhine King Min Razagyi attacked King Nanda of Hanthawaddy, Nga Zinga fought under Min Razagyi. The Rakhine king rewarded Nga Zinga by giving him control over Thanlyin.

Nga Zinga proclaimed himself King de Brito and expanded his control to other port cities like Pathein and Dala, controlling maritime trade. During Nga Zinga's prosperous period, many Portuguese arrived. Along with the Portuguese came Catholicism.

Nga Zinga built a large Catholic church in Thanlyin. This makes Myanmar's Catholic mission unique because it wasn't established by missionaries but by merchants and mercenaries. Unlike other religions, Catholicism arrived before Catholic missionaries.

During Nga Zinga's time, both the religious and social influence of the Portuguese grew strong. As Nga Zinga's power increased, he captured Toungoo. He also brought his friend Nat Shin Naung to Thanlyin and converted him to Catholicism. However, Nga Zinga gained a notorious reputation for destroying Buddhist temples and pagodas and oppressing the people.

But Nga Zinga's power didn't last long. When King Anaukpetlun became powerful in Inwa, it marked a turning point for the Portuguese in Myanmar.

In 1613, King Anaukpetlun personally captured Thanlyin. The defeated Nga Zinga and Nat Shin Naung were executed. As a consequence, all remaining Portuguese were taken as prisoners to Inwa. The Portuguese brought by King Anaukpetlun lived in Inwa as prisoners of war for many years.

The Portuguese continued serving Myanmar kings as artillery operators, gunners, and soldiers until King Thibaw's reign.

During King Pindale's reign in Inwa, when Myanmar forces fought against Emperor Yongli's Chinese troops, it was the Portuguese who defended Inwa until it fell. During the Konbaung period, Portuguese soldiers accompanied Myanmar kings in their campaigns against Siam. They also participated in the Anglo-Burmese Wars.

Myanmar kings also used Portuguese in diplomatic affairs. U Myu, a Portuguese descendant from Mohnyin village, was the first Myanmar ambassador to France. U Myu also negotiated until the last moment to prevent British colonization of Myanmar.

The Great Bayingyi Villages

By 1635, during King Thalun's reign, fearing rebellion from the growing Portuguese population, only a few needed for military service were kept in the palace while the rest were sent to the Sagaing region. They were given land in nine large villages between the Chindwin and Mu rivers.

The Portuguese, who had been seafarers, were sent to the inland Upper Myanmar region between the Mu and Chindwin rivers, leading to the establishment of Bayingyi villages.

King Thalun, known in Myanmar history as a reformist king, allowed the Bayingyi villages to maintain their Catholic customs. They were exempt from taxes but had to serve when summoned by the king.

Today, the villages where Portuguese can still be prominently found are Chaung Ma, Chaung Yoe, Mohnyin, Chaung U, and Nabek villages in the Sagaing Region.

The current Catholic Archbishop of Myanmar and Vatican Cardinal Charles Bo is from Mohnyin village.

Modern Day Bayingyi

Since the Myanmar Catholic mission is now 500 years old, it can be said that the Portuguese have lived in Myanmar for 500 years. They continue to live in central Myanmar where they have resided for generations.

The Portuguese, who participated in national defense during both Myanmar kings' and British rule, were recognized by Myanmar people as Bayingyi.

Until Prime Minister U Nu's time, Catholic priests were sent to Rome for education and received other support and recognition.

However, during General Ne Win's Burma Socialist Programme Party era, religious persecution began. Mission schools were nationalized. Foreign Catholic missionaries and nuns were expelled. Although traditionally recognized as Bayingyi descendants, during the BSPP government, they were no longer officially recognized and could only be listed as Myanmar on their national ID cards.

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While the Bayingyi still maintain their Portuguese appearance, their lifestyle has become thoroughly that of Upper Myanmar people. They have only managed to preserve their religion, while their Portuguese language, social customs, and cultural traditions have merged with Myanmar culture.

Although intermarriage with ethnic Myanmar people has resulted in Portuguese-Myanmar mixed descendants, we don't even find a hybrid culture regarding customs and traditions. Unlike Indian and Chinese communities who maintained their cultural heritage, they showed weakness in preserving their culture. Another factor might be that while China and India share borders with Myanmar, Portugal being overseas made it more difficult for them to maintain their traditions.

Even in Thanlyin, where Portuguese first settled, no Portuguese-related language, neighborhoods, streets, or buildings remain.

The Portuguese descendants, still called Bayingyi by Myanmar people, themselves now view their Portuguese identity merely as a historical milestone. Their significant role in Myanmar history has also been largely forgotten.

Only their religion, ancient Roman Catholic churches, and blue eyes remain as traces of their Portuguese heritage.

Nevertheless, they have become people who can interact confidently with Myanmar people, living in close harmony. This is why these Upper Myanmar Portuguese continue to exist along the Mu and Chindwin rivers.

By Nu Thit Maw (Y3A)

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